Sunday, October 16, 2011

the lure of Manali..

Do you know what happens when you have a holiday on a Thursday or a Tuesday? Well, you take an off on a Friday or a Monday and go for a trek!!! That’s what I would do, or have been doing for quite some time of my life now… But to do that, few terms and conditions have to be satisfied. Like… The journey to start point has to be as short as possible, preferably overnight. The trek has to be short and sweet, with best possible views! Now you would ask me... “Suggest me such destinations Genius?” Least I remember, Manali, Dharamshala/McLoed Ganj, Chamba etc a few places which could be reached overnight, and there are treks that just start from these places.

But of all, Manali is Tanzeem’s, favorite destinations, why, because its easily accessible from Delhi, it has Chopsticks’s AWESOME food and innumerable trekking options; both short and long. And on top of that, if a trek can’t be worked out then he can rent out a Bullet and go riding to places!! All that makes it one perfect destination.

It was a week before the Dusera holiday on Thursday that me and Vivek decided to get one more trek under our belts. The story actually began 2 months back, before the trek that I did in Ladakh! Remember the Stok-Chilling, in August 2011? Vivek was the one who was going to join me for that adventure. Back then we had decided to take the road trip from Delhi-Manali-Leh-Srinagar-Delhi, but due to some un-avoidable circumstances at work place, he had to back out and I ended up doing a sweet long trek from Stok to Chilling, with Dr. Mondal.

Back then I had a promise to keep up an do a trek with Vivek. All set then, we decided to trek on the Dusera weekend. Manali was short listed, now all that had to be decided was, where to trek. Definetly, I wasn’t very keen on doing the Patalsu peak, or the Beas Kund lake or the Chandratal trek, since I had done them all in past. So what other options we had; the Hampta Pass, Saurkundi, Friendship peak, Shitidhar or the seven sisters peak. The later ones being a little bit technical but short were our best bets! After a good thought, we decided to attempt the Shitidhar peak.

Trek Route: Dhundi-Beas Kund-Camp1-Shitidhar Peak

I called up, Chander, in Manali, and asked him to get ready for the trek. Chander is son of Tikkam Thakur, and I have been using him as a guide for quite long time now. But off late, the family has got a little un-adventurous. But I still trust these guys enough to organize a short trek for me.

As I always do... The Characters of the Story….

Me.. I presume you know enough off...
Vivek: We work in same office, play cricket and eat like mad people. After his marriage, definitely his trek frequencies have gone down, but yes, manages 1 a year… What else.. Agrhhh… I am not good at praising people so let be !!!

Chander: Our hard working guide and super fit guide.. . Did seem to run out of gas at times..
Ramu: assistant guide...again not a very experienced trekker, but heck these local have a lung of horse!
Alright, so on a nice quite Wednesday evening, we to the bus to Manali from Delhi. As usual, we got delayed to reach Manali. Few years back traveling to Manali, one use to reach Manali by 7.00 am, but in recent past, there hasn’t been one occasion when I have reached Manali anytime before 10 in morning. As soon as at Manali, we headed straight to Chopsticks. A Hot Lemon Ginger Honey followed by chicken momo’s and Cheese omelet, we took the bust to Solang nala. Once there, Chander was waiting for us with some additional equipment, which would go inside our bags.

A koflach, an ice axe and cramp on’s. Our bag which already had, our warm clothing’s and jackets and sleeping bags got a little heavier. I presume mour bags then almost weighed anywhere between 12-15 kh’s and that’s go damn heavy, especially when you intend to walk against the gravity. And it kills you even more, taking a toll on your knees, ankles, shins when gravity is in your favor!

Trek to Beas Kund and more

Honestly, we were quite optimistic of doing the summit, especially after conquering two passes near about 5000m in recent times, with rather ease! But then its not always as it seems right. Mother nature had some other plans for us…
Once we were done with our packing we loaded our rucksacks in the vehicle and drove to Dhundi. Dhundi is a small place along the new, under-construction Manali Leh highway, a route that would avoid any need of crossing the hopeless Rohtang Pass!! Our trek actually begins from Dhundi. Our target today was to reach the Beas kund campsite, before the nightfall, crossing the Bakar thach Campsite and the Beas glacier moraine on the way.
Trek Route from Dhundi to Beas Kund Campsite

It was 2:30 pm, Thursday afternoon, on 6th Oct, 2011, we began our accent towards the Beas Kund campsite. After just walking a Kilometer or so we realized how heavy actually our bags were. After a few ups and downs along the path we stopped for a breather.
The weather was not the best, we could get. It was cloudy and overcast. Even at 3 in afternoon it felt as if it 6 in evening.
Walking along the way, we crossed the Beas river and began a continuous climb to Bakar Thach camp site.
Soon the beautiful Bakar Thatch campsite came to our sight, and by about 5 pm we were at the campsite, sharing tea with college students. It was getting dark really fast and as it is during the winters the day light is for shorter time. Over the cup of tea we were having a discussion, of should we take a risk of crossing the glacier in night or not.

Chander wasn’t very keen but, we had to cross to give it a good shot to make it to the summit the day after. Took a call and we decide to go on and reach the campsite.

Please find below the link to: MORE PICTURES OF TREK UPTO BAKAR-THACH

Soon we began the very steep ascent to the top of the glacial moraine. Tired of previous night travel and days long trek with a heavy heavy bag, we somehow managed to reach the top. Once on top, the tricky part of crossing the glaciers over boulders begins, and it gets even trickier due to fast disappearing day light.

Chander sprinted ahead of me and I followed. Crossed over on to the other side of the glacier and waited for Vivek and Ramu to come. Once Ramu came across, even he sprinted ahead to set the camp up. Since I was aware of the path, I felt it was Ok.

It started getting really dark, and by the time me and Vivek was down the glacier, it was dark as night. Now the biggest challenge we faced is actually locating where our campsite was.

All I could see was darkness and hear a stream flowing by. Soon we saw a torch light glowing towards us. Slowly steadily we headed towards it. Helped out guys with setting up the camp and changed ourselves into dry warm clothing’s for the night. Quick dinner, trust me dal rice never tasted that good. Once done, we straight hit our sleeping bags and fell into deep slumber.


After a rather disruptive sleep, we woke up fresh the next morning. Sky’s looked relatively clear, a bit hazy though, but better than yesterday… Once out of the tent, we attended to our daily morning chores, followed by a very heavy breakfast, we packed back our stuff and were ready for the steep hike to base camp/camp1.

Trek Route from Baeas Kund Camp to Base Camp/Camp1

Ahemmm!! Back from morning chores... you know them..
360° of Camp Site
You see the frozen river, in the picture above, taking a left and climbing up, further up there is the Camp1
The mighty Hanuman Tibba

Please find here: MORE CAMPSITE PICTURES

We took a lead and headed straight uphill via Beas Kund. Soon we realized, the not so challenging looking walk to camp 1 as it appeared from our previous camp, was actually more than what we expected. Soon I started setting short targets to reach.. And trust me that made our lives easier. Once on reaching the targets, we took a little breather and off towards the next target..

As the climb began, it got steeper and kept on getting steeper...

All seemed going great. We were hoping to be at campsite by early afternoon, at the speed at which we were walking. The only thing that was hurting us was the heavy rucksack..


In the mean time the weather started to deteriorate.. It got cloudy, and the peaks were engulfed by the dark clouds. We kept walking up and must have been about an hour, hour and half away from camp1, and it started snowing! At first Vivek though that his jacket was torn and inside fiber was flying around.. At first we enjoyed, but it soon it got really windy and the snow got heavier.. We were in a fix, so decided for Chander and Ramu to catch up with us.

Soon they were there and we all decided to wait for a while for the storm to sub due..
In the mean time though, it was time to eat some boiled eggs.. And I tell you.. “ Storm mein boiled andae khane ka mazza hi kuch aur hai..” What I said is that boiled eggs and snow storm make a fabulous combination.


About an hour or so passed by, but there were no signs of weather getting any better. Infact, it got a little calm for a while, and grew stronger again.. We could have very slowly and steadily made it to the campsite, but Chander advised us against it... Said, if we stay up and the storm get stronger, the snow would get big and it would be difficult for us to reach the summit. And anyways, if weather stayed bad, we wont even try the summit!

So we decided to head back down, and not take any kind of risk… Now that was a challenge of other kind in itself.. Steep down slope gradient, heavy rucksacks, wet shoes and slippery surface.. On top of that strong winds and snow fall, and terrible visibility.. Everything that we asked for from the almighty that morning…
Soon we reached, Beas Kund… but the storm never stopped.. After a small breather here we decided to head down, atleast up to Bakar thach and then decide what to do next.. When we just reached below the glacial moraine, it stopped snowing, but then it started to rain….
Again it was quite a tricky walk across the slippery, rocky glacier moraine, but we managed it without any incident.. On the downward walk, we encountered a mountain rat, who dint mind posing for us.. It was still raining, when we reached Bakar Thach Campsite... It was a bit mucky there, so we decided to head down all the way to Manali…
Slowly and steadily we made the treacherous walk down to Dhundi, once there we waited the vehicle to come and pick us up..


At Dhundi, the SUV picked us up and dropped us to Solang Nala.. We paid up Chander and Ramu and returned the equipment's and rented a car back to Manali...

Manali & Chopsticks

Once at Manali, we checked into a hotel, got fresh and were all set. Where did we go next… to the good old Chopsticks.. Yes I love that place, if you wondering why… Had a nice Chicken manchow soup, with ChillyGarlic Trout and followed it up with nice yummy tiny Gulab Jamuns from a road side vendor, and walked our way to our hotel room…
The Awesome ambiance at the CHOPSTICKS...
Humare Sharma sahab, while waiting for food thinking, only if the weather hadn't been bad we would be at the Camp1 sleeping now, to attempt the Summit next morning...
There are always two sides of the coin, the good and the bad.. But hey, have you heard of the "Third side of the Coin?" Thats the Chilly Garlic fried Trout Fish at the Chopsticks.. You only get that at Manali...
After your dinner at Chopsticks, don't forget to take a walk out in the market and spot the Gulab Jamun wala... Perfect dessert to the heavy dinner...
the hustle bustle of Manali Market
Next morning, we got our next days ticket cancelled and booked a return ticket for Saturday evening… Once we did our breakfast in chopsticks, we headed for a little Manali tour. First through the narrow markets of Manali then to the Monastery near by. Later had heavy lunch, once again at Chopsticks, and headed straight to bus stand..


Chilly Drying in Sun
The Manali Monastery
writing on the wall.. rather stones..


a cute baby was posing for his mum and family, but he was so cute, so cute, that we couldn't resist taking his few shots... with permissions of his mum of-course..

Vivek taking the right side...

the colorful markets of Manali..

prayer Flags..
All we got back from this trek was, few good memories, experience of trekking with heavy load, super food at chopsticks, trekking in dark, snow storm… Swollen muscles and painful knees, thighs, shins and shoulders…

Sometimes in future I would be back to capture, Shitidhar.. Only next time, I will try to get additional porter to carry our extra load, and better weather window.. For sure.. Till then

Adios… Good Bye and keep trekking..

Cheersss..
Tanzeem Patankar